Albania 2-week itinerary | the ultimate road trip from north to south
Ever thought about driving through a country that still feels like a bit of a secret? That’s exactly what Albania was for us — a mix of turquoise beaches, dramatic mountains, colorful cities, and a few roads that made us question our life choices (in the best way).
After a quick flight to Tirana, we picked up our rental car (highly recommend booking through Rentalcars.com) and hit the road for two adventurous weeks through one of Europe’s most underrated destinations. Albania is surprisingly doable as a road trip — distances are short, fuel is affordable, and every few hours the landscape completely changes. Just don’t expect perfect roads: some mountain routes are rough, half-finished, or have animals casually strolling across them. We even saw adorable donkeys and goats blocking traffic.
And while the scenery is absolutely breathtaking, the reality of trash scattered along otherwise stunning roadsides was hard to ignore. Still, this country stole our hearts. If you’re craving an adventure full of surprises, Albania delivers. Buckle up and follow our itinerary — we’ve got all the stops you can’t miss!
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Day 1-2: Tirana
Drive: Arrival in Tirana
Our first stop? Tirana! Albania’s capital city might not be on everyone’s radar, but it should be. What used to be a drab, grey capital, has transformed into a lively mix of creativity and chaos. Imagine Ottoman-era palaces painted in bold yellows and oranges, old Stalinist apartment blocks turned into massive canvases for colorful murals, cafes spilling into the streets, and a mix of history and modern life that’s impossible to ignore.
It’s not what we expected at all, and that’s what made it so fun.
We spent two days here wandering around, drinking way too much coffee, and getting a feel of the Albanian vibe before hitting the road!
What to do in Tirana
Here’s what we loved most (and what you shouldn’t miss):
→ Skanderbeg Square: This massive square is impossible to miss. It’s lively, colorful, and surrounded by some of the city’s most iconic buildings. We took way too many photos of the Skanderbeg Monument here (worth it).
→ Bunk’Art 2: Imagine walking into a bunker that doubles as a museum. It’s eerie, fascinating, and gives you a glimpse into Albania’s communist history. We could’ve spent hours here.
→ Pazari i Ri: The vibe here? Perfectly chaotic. Fresh produce, street food (we’re still thinking about that souvlaki), and stalls selling handmade crafts. Plus, it’s a great spot to people-watch.
→ Grand Park of Tirana: We didn’t expect such a big green space in the middle of the city! It’s perfect for a walk, and the artificial lake makes it even prettier.
→ Tanner’s Bridge: It’s small, it’s cute, and it’s like a little time capsule from Tirana’s Ottoman days. You’ll probably walk over it without realizing, but it’s worth slowing down for.
→ Blloku District: Tirana’s coolest neighborhood with trendy cafés, bars, and restaurants — perfect for a night out.
→ Our Food & Drink Favorites:
☕ Antigua Specialty Coffee
☕ Noor Coffee & Fine Food
🍝 Pastaria
🍸 Colonial Café (fun cocktails in creative glasses)
🍸 Mugo (where cute boys got us six shots — true story)
Where to Stay in Tirana
Day 3–4: Pogradec / Lake Ohrid
Drive: Drive: 2.5 hours from Tirana
Remember when we went to Ohrid recently? This time we visited the Albanian side of the same lake — Pogradec! It’s got a completely different vibe. Where Ohrid is historic and bustling, Pogradec feels calm, local, and much cheaper. It’s the kind of quiet lakeside town where time slows down, which we loved.
Even with a bit of rain and clouds, we spent hours just relaxing by the water, taking in the views. It wasn’t perfect, a lot of places were closed in September and the weather gave everything a sleepy feel, but that’s also what made it charming. Albania isn’t about perfection.
Where to Stay in Pogradec
We stayed in this huge Airbnb — honestly way too big for just the two of us, but super affordable and only a short walk from the beach. Perfect if you want some extra space and a chill lakeside vibe.
Day 5–6: Korçë
Drive: 1 hour from Pogradec
Korçë ended up being my absolute favorite city in Albania. It’s small, authentic, and somehow still under the radar.
The highlight here is definitely the Old Bazaar, a beautifully restored area full of cafés, cobblestone streets, and a cozy, local atmosphere. It’s easy to spend hours wandering around. Grab a cold Korça beer and just people-watch — that’s what we did.
We also visited the Cemetery of the Martyrs, a moving WWII memorial overlooking the city, and the Resurrection of Christ Cathedral, which reminded us of Greece with its blue-and-white colors. In the evening, we joined locals on St. George Boulevard for the traditional xhiro — a relaxed evening stroll. The boulevard is lined with cafés and trees, and it’s the perfect place to feel the local rhythm of life.
If you have time, take a quick drive or short hike up to Maja Shëndëllisë for incredible views over the city. We may have cheated and driven most of the way, but no regrets.
Where to Stay in Korçë
We stayed at Boulevard Boutique Aparthotel, which we can totally recommend. It’s modern, comfortable, and right in the center — we walked everywhere from there!
Day 7: Përmet / Thermal Baths of Benja
Drive: Around 3 hours (and honestly, the mountain roads were scary)
This day was an adventure in itself. The drive from Korçë to Përmet was one of the wildest routes we’ve ever taken — half-finished roads, cliffs, random animals on the road.. but also incredible views.
Once we finally made it, the Thermal Baths of Benja (Llixhat e Benjes) were the perfect reward. The pools are surrounded by nature, with warm water bubbling between 24–28°C. Each pool supposedly has different healing properties, but honestly, we were just there for the view and the relaxation.
Next to the pools is the Ottoman Bridge of Kadiut, a stunning old stone bridge arching over the river. I wanted to walk across it but chickened out halfway — it’s higher (and scarier) than it looks. Still, it’s such a beautiful spot.
Where to Stay in Përmet
We didn’t stay overnight in Përmet, but if you want to spend more time soaking in the thermal baths, there are plenty of guesthouses and small hotels nearby. Check the widget below for places close to Llixhat e Benjes — some even have mountain views!
Day 8–9: Gjirokastër
Drive: 1 hour
We hit the road again and made our way to Gjirokastër, a UNESCO World Heritage city that looks straight out of a fairytale. It’s known as the City of Stone, and for good reason — nearly every house and street is built from it.
The old town is all cobblestone streets and steep hills lined with traditional Ottoman houses. Exploring Gjirokastër Castle is a must. It’s massive, with sweeping views over the Drino Valley and plenty of history packed inside. Fun fact: the castle is now partly powered by solar energy!
Other highlights:
→ The Bazaar: full of local crafts and souvenirs
→ Skenduli House: a preserved Ottoman home that shows how wealthy families lived centuries ago
→ Ethnographic Museum: located in Enver Hoxha’s former home — fascinating and eerie at the same time
Gjirokastër has this quiet magic to it, especially in the evenings when the sun hits the stone walls just right.
Where to Stay in Gjirokastër
We stayed at Boutique Hotel Praga, and the pool was an absolute win after exploring all those steep cobblestone streets! The rooms were comfy, the views were beautiful, and it’s within walking distance of the old town.
Day 10–12: Sarandë & Ksamil
Drive: Around 1 hour
After all the mountains and history, it was finally time for some beach days! We drove to the coast and settled in Sarandë. The sunsets here were unreal — golden skies over bright blue water — and the beaches were perfect for a lazy day.
But to be honest, the city itself didn’t wow us. The coastline is beautiful, but Sarandë felt crowded and overbuilt, with hotels right on the beach and rows of umbrellas everywhere. It wasn’t the charming coastal town we’d imagined. Still, those views and sunsets made it worth the stop.
From Sarandë, we took short trips to:
Syri i Kaltër (The Blue Eye): a natural spring with unbelievably clear, ice-cold water. It’s said to be more than 50 meters deep, but no one knows for sure. Watching people dive into the freezing water was entertainment on its own.
Ksamil: postcard-perfect beaches with crystal-clear water and white sand. It’s gorgeous, but also extremely busy, even in shoulder season. If you visit, go early to find a spot.
Where to Stay in Sarandë
We stayed at Harmony Hotel, and it turned out to be such a good find! The restaurant downstairs was amazing — we had mussels for dinner and the breakfast was just as good. Plus, it’s right by the beach, so we woke up to those perfect sea views from our room.
Day 13–14: Berat
Drive: Around 4 hours along the scenic coastal route
Our final stop before heading back to Tirana was Berat, the City of a Thousand Windows. And honestly, the name couldn’t be more accurate. White Ottoman houses stack up along the hillside, each with rows of big windows that make it look like the city is quietly watching you.
We loved wandering through the narrow cobblestone streets and soaking in the old-world charm. The highlight was Berat Castle, which sits high above the city. The climb in 40°C heat was brutal, but the views at the top made it worth every sweaty step. The best part? People still live inside the castle walls, and you can grab a drink at one of the tiny bars overlooking the city.
Where to Stay in Berat
We stayed at Hotel Rezidenca Desaret, and it was beautiful — with incredible views over Berat and a cozy restaurant where we ended up spending our entire first night.
Day 15: Back to Tirana
Drive: Around 2 hours
Our final drive back to Tirana felt bittersweet — a mix of exhaustion and gratitude. Two weeks, countless winding roads, and a playlist that will forever remind us of this trip. Albania surprised us in every possible way: it’s wild, friendly, affordable, and full of personality.
If you’re thinking about it — do it. Just bring a sense of adventure, a good camera, and a bit of patience for the roads. You’re in for one incredible ride.
Where to Stay in Tirana near the airport
For our last night, we stayed at mk | hotel tirana — the perfect spot before an early morning flight. It’s super close to the airport, our car rental company even picked up the car there (so easy!), and they have a shuttle service that drops you off right at the terminal. Oh, and did we mention the pool and cocktails? Let’s just say it was the perfect way to end our trip.
Some last quick tips for your Albania road trip
Best time to visit: May–October (shoulder season = fewer crowds)
Driving: Expect rough roads, slow traffic, and animals. Google Maps works fine, but always double-check your route.
Fuel: Affordable and easy to find.
Costs: Albania is one of the cheapest countries in Europe to travel through.
Try: Korça beer, local wines, and anything with grilled meat — portions are generous!
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