Ohrid | a complete travel guide to North Macedonia’s lakeside gem
When we planned our trip to Skopje – part of our mission to visit every European capital – we kept hearing the same thing: “You have to go to Ohrid.” Everyone was gushing about it, so how could we resist? With just a couple of days to spare, we hopped on a bus and headed south. What we found was even better than we imagined: cobblestone streets, breathtaking lake views, and a sense of calm we hadn’t felt in ages.
Ohrid pulled us in right away. As soon as we stepped off the bus, we could see why everyone loves this place. It’s not just the lake or the old town — it’s how it all fits together. The way the streets feel alive with history but also kind of laid-back. The smell of grilled trout coming from a nearby restaurant. The little boats bobbing on the water. Ohrid just feels special, and we’re excited to share everything we discovered during our visit.
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Quick Facts & How to Get There
→ Best Time to Visit: May to September for warm weather and outdoor activities; December for a magical winter by the lake.
→ Currency: Macedonian Denar (MKD). Most places take cash, but some restaurants and hotels accept cards.
→ Language: Macedonian is the official language, but English is widely spoken in tourist areas. A quick “fala” (thank you) goes a long way!
Getting to Ohrid
→ By Plane: The easiest way is to fly into St. Paul the Apostle Airport (OHD), which is just 10 kilometers from the city center. From the airport, a taxi ride is quick and affordable — just double-check the price before you hop in. Or book a GetTransfer!
→ By Bus: If you’re coming from Skopje (or even neighboring countries), the bus is your best bet. We took a three-hour ride from Skopje and found it reliable and easy to book (maybe not the most comfortable, ha!). Make sure to bring snacks and enjoy the scenic countryside along the way.
→ By Car: Renting a car gives you flexibility and the chance to stop at picturesque villages along the way. The roads are well-maintained, and the drive from Skopje takes about 2.5 hours. We recommend Rentalcars.com.
Getting around in Ohrid
Once you’re in Ohrid, getting around is a breeze. The old town is compact, so you can walk almost everywhere. Wear comfy shoes — cobblestones and hills are part of the charm! For spots further out, like the Monastery of St. Naum, you’ve got a few options:
→ Taxis: Affordable and easy to find, but agree on a price before starting your trip.
→ Boats: A scenic and fun way to explore the lake. We loved the boat ride!
→ Bikes: If you’re feeling active, rent a bike to cruise along the lakeshore.
Whether you’re exploring on foot, by taxi, or on the water, getting around is part of the experience here. Don’t rush — it’s the perfect place to slow down and soak it all in.
Top Experiences You Can’t Miss
Marvel at St. Jovan Kaneo
We probably stayed here the longest because it was, hands down, the most beautiful spot in Ohrid. Perched on a cliff overlooking the lake, St. Jovan Kaneo is iconic for a reason. You can sit on a nearby bench and take in the view for ages — it’s that good. Entrance is free, and it’s worth every second.
Cruise Lake Ohrid
We didn’t realize how big the lake was until we were out on it. A boat ride on Lake Ohrid is a must-do, just being on the lake was magical. The little boats, the sparkling water, and the view of the hills — it all felt like something out of a storybook. It’s a bit pricey, but the experience is so worth it.
Stroll Through the Old Town
This is where Ohrid really shows off its charm. Wandering through the Old Town felt like stepping back in time. The narrow streets, colorful doors, and surprise views of the lake around every corner kept us exploring for hours. Stop by the bazaar if you’re in the mood for some shopping or just to soak in the lively atmosphere.
Visit Samuel’s Fortress
You can climb up the walls of Samuel’s Fortress, and the views from the top are unbeatable. We didn’t actually make it up there (next time, for sure!), but it’s a must for anyone visiting Ohrid. Tickets are 120 MKD (€2), and the photos you’ll get are worth it.
Explore Plaoshnik
We got a little tour here from the most enthusiastic woman ever, who brought the history of the place to life. The reconstructed Church of St. Clement and St. Panteleimon is stunning, but hearing about its importance as the birthplace of the Cyrillic alphabet made it even better. The tour was “pay what you want,” which felt fair and added a personal touch to our visit.
Relax at Trpejca Beach
They call it the “Macedonian Saint-Tropez,” and we totally get why. We didn’t swim because it was May and the water was still freezing, but the vibe here is so chill. Definitely go in the summer months if you want to swim!
Check Out the Ancient Theater
This isn’t just any theater — it’s one of the oldest in the Balkans and still hosts performances today. Sitting there, it’s easy to imagine what it must’ve been like thousands of years ago. If you’re lucky, you might catch a show while you’re there.
Walk Along the Ohrid City Wall
The ancient city wall is one of Ohrid’s lesser-known gems. Walking along the remaining sections gives you a unique perspective of the town’s historical importance. Some areas are crumbling, but that adds to the charm.
Visit the Church of St. Sophia
We’ll admit it: we missed this one. But it’s known for its incredible frescoes and peaceful atmosphere. Next time, it’s at the top of our list!
Discover the Robevci House Museum
This old Ottoman house feels like a time capsule. Walking through its creaky wooden halls and seeing the displays of traditional clothing and artifacts gave us a real sense of Ohrid’s history and culture. It’s a quieter spot but definitely worth your time.
Swim in Lake Ohrid
Okay, so we didn’t actually swim, but we saw plenty of locals and tourists braving it. If you visit in summer, pack your swimsuit and find a quiet spot to take a dip — it looks magical to swim in a place that feels so untouched!
Food & Drink: Where to Eat
Ohrid’s food scene is as delightful as the city itself. Expect hearty portions at reasonable prices — this is a place where you can eat well without breaking the bank. Local specialties like Ohrid Trout and tavče gravče (a baked bean dish) are must-tries, and you’ll find plenty of cozy spots to enjoy a meal with a view of the lake. Here are a few of our favorite places to eat:
→ Kaj Kanevche: This little restaurant in the Old Town serves up some of the best Ohrid Trout we tried. It’s fresh, flavorful, and pairs perfectly with a glass of local wine. The staff was incredibly friendly, making us feel right at home.
→ Kaneo Restaurant: If you’re looking for a spot with stunning lake views, this is it. The seafood here is amazing, and while it’s a bit pricier than other spots, the atmosphere more than makes up for it. Try to grab a table outside if the weather’s good.
→ Belvedere: For a traditional Macedonian dining experience, Belvedere is the place to go. The menu is full of local dishes, and the portions are huge. We loved the tavče gravče and the live music that gave the place a lively, welcoming vibe.
→ Su Rooftop: Stop here for a light dinner and cocktails; the views were incredible. It’s a more modern spot, great for unwinding after a day of exploring.
→ Irish Pub Dublin: This one was a bit of a surprise! Located along the promenade, it’s a fun spot for a drink and some comfort food. The portions were generous, and the prices were super affordable — a nice change if you’re craving something less traditional.
Where to Stay
Finding a great place to stay in Ohrid is easy, whether you’re looking for something budget-friendly or a more luxurious lakeside retreat. We recommend staying near the Old Town if you want to be close to all the action or along the lake for those postcard-perfect views. Look for accommodations with lake access or a terrace — you’ll want to soak up every bit of the scenery.
We stayed at Villa Jordan, which turned out to be an amazing choice! It’s a lovely place with a pool (perfect for relaxing after a day of exploring), and the location was super convenient. Plus, we couldn’t resist staying there because it shares the same name as Kiki’s last name — clearly, it was meant to be!
For those who like to plan ahead, we’ve added two booking tools below so you can search for hotels on Booking.com or hostels on Hostelworld and compare options. If you’re a last-minute traveler like us, don’t worry — Ohrid has plenty of options to suit your style and budget!
Fun Facts & Cultural Tips
→ Lake Ohrid: It’s one of Europe’s oldest and deepest lakes, shared between North Macedonia and Albania. If you’re a fan of trivia, it’s also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
→ Pearls of Ohrid: Ohrid is famous for its unique pearls made from fish scales. If you’re looking for a meaningful souvenir, this is it.
→ Religious Sites: Many churches and monasteries in Ohrid require modest clothing to enter. Carrying a scarf in your bag is an easy way to be prepared.
→ Tipping Culture: Tipping in Ohrid is appreciated but not mandatory. In restaurants, a 10% tip is a nice gesture if the service was good. For guides or drivers, rounding up or leaving a small amount is common.
→ Say “Fala!” Macedonian for thank you. Even if you only learn one word, this is the one to remember — it’s guaranteed to earn you a smile!
Wrap-Up
Ohrid truly captured our hearts, and we’re confident it will capture yours too. Whether it’s the sparkling lake views, the rich history that oozes from every corner, or the warmth of the locals, this city has a way of making you feel right at home. We came expecting to tick off another destination on our list, but we left with unforgettable memories and a strong urge to return. So, pack your bags, book that trip, and get ready to fall in love with Ohrid—it’s a place that simply can’t be missed!
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